Matchday guides for Europe’s biggest clubs

North London's champions again after twenty-two years, at the Emirates. Herbert Chapman's clock, the 'library' and how to break it, North London Forever, and the members-only ballot you'll probably lose.

One of the founders of the whole sport, a European champion gone wandering and now back, at a grand old ground with one of the great home ends. Getting to Aston, the honest word on the atmosphere, and the ticket booking-history wall.

The blue half of west London, at a tight old ground it keeps threatening to replace. From the Abramovich billions to the Boehly reset, Blue Is the Colour, and the membership you'll need before you can even buy in.

The Kop, six European Cups and You'll Never Walk Alone, at a ground with no station and a ticket system built to keep you out. Shankly, Hillsborough handled with the care it demands, and the one realistic route in for an overseas fan.

The club Abu Dhabi money turned into a superpower of the English game, at a stadium still growing. The honest 'Emptyhad' atmosphere, Blue Moon and the Poznań, and one of the more gettable tickets among the giants.

The story behind the badge, the pre-match street, where the noise actually is, and how a first-timer does an Old Trafford matchday without looking like one.

The heartbeat of a one-club city, at a ground set right in the middle of town, with the loudest end in England on its day. The Saudi takeover, a first trophy in seventy years, and the friendliest away-day in the league.

North London's great nearly-men, who finally won something, at the flashiest ground in the country. Glory Glory, the honest atmosphere, and the members-only ticket wall.

The Rossoneri, seven-time kings of Europe, at the great shared San Siro in its final years. The Sacchi-to-Maldini dynasty, the honest state of the Curva Sud, Sarà perché ti amo, and getting in before the ground comes down.

The people's half of Rome, at a shared Olympic stadium with a running track and a ferocious home end. Getting out to the Foro Italico, the honest word on the derby, and the named-ticket rules.

Florence's club, in viola, at a listed 1930s stadium that is being rebuilt around the fans. Two European final heartbreaks, the hatred of Juventus, and the honest word on a ground in flux.

The black-and-blue half of Milan, back on top after a brutal night in Munich, at the great condemned San Siro. The Curva Nord turmoil, Pazza Inter, and how a tourist gets in before the wrecking ball.

Italy's most successful and most resented club, at the sleek ground it built for itself. La Vecchia Signora, the truth about Calciopoli and the quiet Curva, and how a tourist actually gets in.

Maradona's city and its quasi-religious club, at the ground that bears his name. The southern-Italy identity, one of Europe's fiercest atmospheres, the pizza, and the Fan Card hoop you'll need to clear to get in.

The older of Rome's two clubs, at the same Olympic stadium as Roma but from the other end. How to reach the Foro Italico, where to drink at Ponte Milvio, the eagle's pre-match flight, and what to expect while the home support boycotts its own ground.

The club that fields only Basque players, at the ground they call the Cathedral. The honest word on an atmosphere that can be a library, the txikiteo before kickoff, and why a league ticket here is very gettable.

Madrid's other club, the working-class one that turned suffering into an identity, at a big new stadium out east. The metro-in-metro-out reality, the honest word on the atmosphere, and why a league ticket is gettable.

Catalonia's club, at a half-rebuilt Camp Nou. The story worth knowing, the anthem, and the honest word on tickets, the tourist crowd, and where the noise actually is.

The green-and-white heart of Seville, whose fans love the club win or lose. The honest word on where they actually play right now, the derby you cannot get into, and how a tourist gets in.

The most decorated club in football, at a Bernabéu rebuilt into a spaceship. The honest truth about the tourist-quiet crowd, and the metro closure and ticket maze you have to plan around.

San Sebastián's club, at a rebuilt Anoeta a 30- to 40-minute walk from the pintxo bars of the old town. The bus and train in, the club's own pre-match fan zone, where the singing and the away fans are, and how a visitor gets one of the seats the members leave.

The most successful club in the history of Europe's second cup, at a steep, compact ground they call the Bombonera of Nervión. The honest word on a club fallen to mid-table, the derby you cannot get into, and how a tourist buys in.

A terrace in the woods in Köpenick, rebuilt by volunteers, with 72,000 members and no general sale. The honest word on getting in, and the ways that actually work.

Bavaria's club and Germany's giant, at the glowing Allianz Arena. The Südkurve that carries the noise, the honest truth about the quiet 60,000 around it, the beer, and why the good tickets are a lottery.

One of the great terraces in football that a visitor can actually get on, no membership needed. Here's the Yellow Wall, the beer, and how to do a Dortmund matchday like a local.

The club whose fans took over Barcelona, at a ground in the middle of a forest. Standing in the Nordwestkurve, apple wine in Sachsenhausen, and the honest word on which games a visitor can actually get into.

The home of Total Football and the world's most admired academy, out in the Amsterdam suburbs. Cruyff's legacy, Three Little Birds, and how the Club Card really works for visitors.

A 1937 bowl on the south bank of the Maas, a working-class city's football club, and a membership rule that decides whether you get in. Where the noise is, what to eat, and which games are closed to you.

The Philips works team that became a European champion and a talent factory, at a stadium in the middle of Eindhoven. The 1988 peak, the Oost, and how the Dutch Club Card works for visitors.

The relentless winning machine of the Portuguese north, at a stadium the metro drops you at the door of. The two ultra ends, the honest word on the pre-match, and why a league ticket is straightforward.

The biggest club in Portugal, with a real eagle, a famous curse and a fanbase in the hundreds of thousands, at a red stadium out in the north of Lisbon. The metro, the bifana stalls, and the honest word on the atmosphere.

The other half of Lisbon, in green-and-white hoops at the Estádio José Alvalade. The right metro stop, the food trucks, where the noise and the away fans are, and how a visitor gets a ticket.

Istanbul's black-and-white club, at a stadium on the water beside a sultan's palace. The eagle, the Çarşı support, the Passo Taraftar card you cannot skip, and how a visitor gets in.

One of the loudest crowds on the planet, reached by a Bosphorus ferry to a lively district that is half the fun. The Passo Taraftar fan-ID card, the Kadıköy bars, and the honest word on the derby.

One of the loudest, most intimidating grounds on earth, out in the north of Istanbul. The Passo Taraftar card you cannot enter without, the metro out from the centre, and an honest word on the derby.

The loudest, proudest, most rebellious club in France, at a ground with an ultra end behind each goal. The metro out to the Prado, the honest word on the city, and why both bends never stop singing.

The bought club that chased one cup for a decade and lifted it at last. The Virage Auteuil, the anthem, and the honest word on tickets, scams, and a ground whose days may be numbered.

Glasgow's Irish-Catholic institution and one of the great atmospheres in Europe. Brother Walfrid, the Lisbon Lions, the Green Brigade, and the honest, careful truth about the Old Firm and what you'll hear sung.

Glasgow's blue half, back from the dead and back in the Old Firm, at the grand old Ibrox. The 2012 collapse, the Old Firm handled with care, and the honest word on the songs and the disasters.

Belgium's champions in a crumbling shared bowl outside one of Europe's prettiest cities. The digital identity rule that catches foreign fans, where the noise is, and what to drink in Bruges.

Prague's red-and-white half, in a 19,000-seat bowl four kilometres east of the old town. The account you have to verify before you fly, the bag you cannot bring, and an honest word on the kotel.

Denmark's dominant modern club at the national stadium, in one of the most livable cities in Europe. The standing singing end, the metro to the door, and why this is one of the simplest big-club trips going.

Greece's most decorated club, in the port city of Piraeus, a metro ride from central Athens. The fan card and the Gov.gr Wallet app you need before you can get in, where the noise and the away fans are, and why the number 7 is picked out in the seats.

Maybe the most intense atmosphere on earth, in a three-sided stadium in a working-class Buenos Aires barrio. Why you can't just buy a ticket, how to actually get in, and how to do La Boca safely.

El Monumental, the biggest stadium in South America. The socios-only ticket reality, how a tourist actually gets in, and the Sívori end where the noise lives.

The most-supported club in Brazil, in one of the most storied stadiums on earth. Buying with a passport, the face scan to register before matchday, the metro to the door, and the honest word on a Maracanã matchday.